The flinty, chalky, 76-acre estate of Château de Tracy near Sancerre in the eastern Loire Valley has a long and noble history. Grapes were being cultivated on this land as early as 1396, but not until the end of the 19th century did Jacques de Tracy begin bottling wines on the property. Today, Count Henri d’Assay and his family employ sustainable practices to create classic Pouilly-Fumé. The
Château de Tracy 2005 Pouilly-Fumé Haute Densité (www.chateau-de-tracy.com, $100) is a masterfully delineated rendition of Sauvignon Blanc—silky smooth, with juicy citrus, bright acidity, structured minerality, and tremendous depth and style.